1 November 1993 Funchal
A beautiful day but no wind. A few boats left the marina today. We went up to the Botanical Gardens and walked back down the 1:3 hill. We had lunch out and then just hung about. Still no wind and there might be another low coming – we wait!
2 November 1993 Funchal
Another beautiful morning. The low has moved north and the Azores high is massive, stretching over the whole area of Canaries and Madeira. Not much wind, but we will go early tomorrow. We went to the Natural Museum and Aquarium in the afternoon.
I cleared out of customs and came back to find chaos with the French boat inside of us trying to leave. They managed to get my nice, long 12-plaid rope wrapped around their propellor. Eventually, one of the young crew jumped into the water with a knife! I stopped him and jumped in myself to clear it. (The crowd cheers!)
After the “Jaime Francaise” had left we went for a beer on Dave and Gail’s boat “Adagio” (USA). Other people we have met include Chris and Sue from “Wombat” a Swiss boat and Tony on “Solong” an English boat. The marina has only charged us for 2 days because of the storm, which was really nice!
3 November 1993 Funchal to Puerto de Naos, Lanzarote (Day 1)
Quite a bit of wind from the West last night as a front went through from a Low to the North. By nine o’clock in the morning, the wind had dropped and we took advantage of a lull to extract ourselves from the raft.
The first hour was very rolly with swell from the SW and wind from the East. Everyone was feeling a bit grim after being in the marina for a week. The wind swung around all over the place until after dinner, when it finally settled down to North. The sea was very confused and one wave dumped about 50 gallons of water into the cockpit and over us. Fortunately only a few splashes got down below. We kept the washboard in place and the hatch shut after that.
We motored and sailed and motored and sailed until it settled down so that we could run with just the genoa rolled out. As we were feeling rough, we decided to use the autopilot all night. We put the clocks forward 1 hour. We had a fraught hour threading our way through a patch of flotsam and trees about 30 miles away from Madeira. Obviously a result of the storm on Madeira. We didn’t hit anything, but I’m glad it was daylight.
4 November 1993 Funchal to Puerto de Naos, Lanzarote (Day 2)
Had quite a nice night averaging 5 knots. The autopilot took its toll on the batteries which were down to 24V, so we motored for a couple of hours after breakfast.
When we were in Funchal, Glenys had bought 2 kg of tuna steaks and just as she finished grilling some for lunch, I caught a 2lb tuna!! Hurray, at last! I reckon that I’ve spent £50 on lures and tackle, which makes it a very expensive fish but very nice. What a beautiful colour it was when we pulled it out. It’s ironic that Glenys has already got a load of tuna in the fridge – looks like we’ll be eating tuna for several days to come. The wind dropped in the afternoon, so we motored for about 1 hour before it picked up enough to sail.
5 November 1993 Funchal to Puerto de Naos, Lanzarote (Day 3)
It was a pretty boring night; sometimes sailing, sometimes motoring. I was a little bit worried approaching the passage between Ilas Alegranza and Islas Graciosa at night because there are no lights on that side of the islands. I used radar and GPS and fortunately dawn came while we were still a couple of miles out.
We motored all the way to Arrecife harbour and then decided that it is too exposed, so we went into Naos Harbour. Mike and Marina on “Columbine” are at anchor here, but have lost their mast - I’ll have to go over and find out what has happened! I made a crap downwind docking in the marina, but we survived!
6 November 1993 Puerto de Naos, Lanzarote
Generally lurking about. We met Phil, Robin and children Coby, Natt and Callum on a catamaran “Wisecat”. They left Australia ten years ago! There are a few children here including Organ and Cleona, who we met in Gibraltar in May. Brett and Craig love it here!
7 November 1993 Puerto de Naos, Lanzarote
We went on the bus to a Sunday market at Teguise with Phil, Robin and kids which was good fun. We had a quiet afternoon while the boys played somewhere else.
We went for a commiseration drink with Mike and Marina on “Columbine”. They lost their mast on an afternoon’s sail with some relations – what a shock!
8 November 1993 Puerto de Naos, Lanzarote
We hired a car today. We went to visit Anne and John on “Sandpiper” in Puerto Calero. We only went to check that they were there, so we just spent 10 minutes chatting to them. We then went to the National Park at Timanfaya which is absolutely fantastic. 50 square kilometres of volcanoes and flat plains of lava! The boys were very impressed by the demonstration of pouring a bucket of water down a hole (caldera) which then shoots out as a 20 ft column of steam.
We spent the rest of the day driving around the island visiting fishing villages and getting fabulous views of the Island from the mountain tops. The deal was to return the car with an empty tank. I had put too much petrol in the car, so I siphoned some out for myself and gave some to “Columbine” and “Wisecat”.
9 November 1993 Puerto de Naos, Lanzarote
I did a few errands this morning. I took the car back and picked up 3 gas bottles from the chandlers. I’ll respect having piped gas when we get back in a house! Glenys did school work with Brett which was hard work because the other children were hovering around before he had finished. Brett spent all afternoon out playing and had to be dragged in at seven o’clock (it goes dark by half past six.)
We decided that it was shower night. Brett was so tired that he cried and screamed that he didn’t like getting wet. Craig copied him and wailed and screamed that he didn’t want his hair washed. God knows what everyone in the marina thinks about the screaming! Brett is starting to talk like Organ and Craig is picking up the lingo too. Brett is having the time of his life – catching up on six months without children to play with. So I don’t really mind his rebellion and irrational, tired antics.
10 November 1993 Puerto de Naos, Lanzarote
I checked the batteries and rewired the mains. I’ve shortened the wires on the adverc and the oscillating ammeter is a little better. Glenys went into town and bought some acrylic canvas to make extension flaps for the awning. Brett did his school work in the morning and then disappeared with the other kids. Mike and Marina came for a drink and were persuaded to stay for dinner.
11 November 1993 Puerto de Naos to Puerto Calero, Lanzarote
Not much wind this morning, so we managed to extract ourselves without too much trouble. The wind picked up after about ½ hour gusting to 35 knots occasionally. We ripped along with just the jib out.
We filled up with fuel when we arrived in Puerto Calero, two hours later. The wind was blowing us directly onto the fuel quay and we had a lot of trouble getting off. I must start springing us off properly. This is a brand new marina stuck in the middle of nowhere with nothing to see.
Anne and John from “Sandpiper” came to visit us bringing loads of food and wine. We had a really nice meal. Anne had wanted to cook a meal for us but felt that her boat was too small for all of us and the boys!
12 November 1993 Puerto Calero to Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
We had a bit of a struggle leaving the marina berth in the strongish winds, but managed OK. We unfurled the genoa about 200 metres outside the port and sailed dead downwind at 6 knots. After an hour, we poled out the genoa and rolled our way south. We caught a small tuna just off Rosario.
The entrance into the marina is really tight with a reef on the starboard side and a shallow beach to port. We tied up against the quayside and were told by an English couple that we must go and see the Harbour Master at eight o’clock! We had a quick look around the place and it looks very good - beach, windsurfing, diving club and it’s only £4/night including electricity and water! I think that we will stay a couple of weeks.
13 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
What an awful night. The wind was fairly strong pushing us against the rough stone wall and wind waves were banging against the side of the hull. At midnight, I was woken by a strange squeaking from the fenders. I got up and looked at the fenders to find the hull nicely rubbing on the top corner of the wall! It was high tide and the water level was only about 9 inches below the top edge of the quay, so the fenders had simply floated out of the way. I shoved two tyres in place and sat up until half past two, practising the “Three Card Trick”and watching the fenders.
I was up at seven in the morning to move the boat alongside a big fishing boat. We managed to spring ourselves off quite nicely and turned in a very tight corner to come alongside perfectly. I went windsurfing – bloody great. 20-25 knots with a 5.5 M² sail is just right, but hard work. We met Jimmy and Marion on “Mobydick II” (Brits) who left the UK nine years ago.
14 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
School work and shopping in the morning. Glenys is working on side flaps for the awning to stop rain dripping into the cockpit. Glenys and the boys went to the swimming pool. I went windsurfing. I then went snorkelling and shot a big grouper thing, but it looks a bit odd, so I don’t know if we will eat it. We went for a drink with Jimmy and Marion (who incidentally spent a winter in France with Phil and Robin from “Wisecat”).
15 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
I don’t need to worry about whether or not the fish is edible because it was lying half eaten on the deck this morning – cats, I suppose. School work, jobs, beach and I went snorkelling for an hour.
It was my mum’s 60th birthday, so I rang her at the hotel she and Dad are staying at, and the boys sang Happy Birthday to her. She thinks that she is going to have a quiet meal with just my dad tonight, but all of the family is turning up to surprise her. Glenys finished the awning today and is itching to start on the new saloon upholstery.
16 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
Schoolwork and jobs. The boys and I started to clean up the bikes ready for painting, but Brett and Craig started to feel a bit “fluey” so I ended up filing and sanding the bikes while they went to “Moby Dick” to watch a video. Jimmy and Marion came for a drink in the evening.
I thought about work this evening, and realised that I hadn’t really seen people as “people” but as organisms that did particular jobs. When cruising you get to know people within days rather than months - I guess because you have common interests (and you may never see them again.)
17 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
I painted the bikes and Glenys started the upholstery. I went windsurfing in the afternoon and then we all went round to “Moby Dick” to watch a video after dinner.
18 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
I finished a few jobs and Glenys did the upholstery. There wasn’t enough wind to go windsurfing, so I went spearfishing. I hit a few fish, but the point of the spear wasn’t sharp enough so unfortunately (for the fish) I only wounded them. Glenys went into Rosario with Marion. Craig and I spent a pleasant couple of hours together without Brett interrupting – we must do this more often.
19 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
School work and jobs in morning. I went spearfishing and caught one small fish (awww!) It was Jimmy’s birthday, so we invited them for dinner. We all had a nice time. I’ve got lock jaw from biting the snorkel.
Jimmy and Marion have a small clinker-built dinghy that has sail rig like an Optimist. Jimmy built it himself. They row and sail it everywhere. I quite like the idea of having a “hard” dinghy that we could sail, but where would I put it? Also most of the hard dinghies that I’ve seen are very small.
20 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
I played squash in the morning, nursing my hangover. Glenys continued with the upholstery while I felt sorry for myself with my hangover and lock jaw. The boys and I went and played on the rocks collecting shrimp and fish, etc.
21 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
After a few chores, we went to the swimming pool where the boys went swimming while we waited for our core temperature to rise – unfortunately clouds covered the sun! We hung around in the afternoon.
We had a commiseration drink with Jimmy and Marion whose insurance company have stopped insuring them because their new standing rigging (which cost them £1800) is only 8mm instead of 10mm – the original was 7mm! I rang John Day and he is looking forward to meeting us in Tenerife and then crossing the Atlantic. He has got everything apart from the computer which has been sent back to the manufacturers. Apparently, there was 2 inches of snow in England last night!
22 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
The wind is from the west today, so we will wait! School work and windsurfing for me, upholstery for Glenys. We went for a drink with Rich, Jan, Christine (11) and Stephanie (8) on “Whisper” from Maine. Christine is doing Grade 6 Calvert and Stephanie is doing Grade 3 Calvert while Brett (6¾) is doing Grade 2, so we think that we’ve got it about right.
23 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo, Fuerteventura
Absolutely horrible weather – 35 knots and freezing rain. We just messed about. The weather depressed me so much that I couldn’t bring myself to do anything. Glenys did some more upholstery. Rich and Jan came for a drink and were persuaded to stay for dinner. Brett has really latched onto Stephanie and has had a good time.
24 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo to Las Palmas, Gran Canaria (Day 1)
We spent most of the day tidying the boat after ten days in port. We left the harbour at three o’clock in the afternoon, with a pleasant NW wind. The wind has been very variable all day with lulls at high headlands and strong winds in the acceleration zones either side. We made really good time up to midnight, but it was extremely uncomfortable below.
On Glenys’ first watch (10-12) she became nervous as the seas became lumpy and the depth reduced rapidly to 25 metres. She checked on the chart and discovered we were within ½ mile of an unmarked rock off the southern most tip of Fuerteventura. We had been pushed over to the right for some strange reason. Also, her nervousness was increased by the uncertainty of where the acceleration zones are and how bad they would be. Alfred Hitchcock once said that a thriller is being frightened by what happens, but suspense is knowing something awful is going to happen.
25 November 1993 Puerto del Castillo to Las Palmas, Gran Canaria (Day 2)
The motion remained very uncomfortable all night with a beam sea. We managed to sail about 70 degrees off the wind and we really covered some distance.
At three o’clock in the morning, we reduced our sail plan to slow down, so that we would arrive during daylight. We had quite a few showers and squalls and at times we would be doing 6 knots with just a furled genoa. The motion was horrible and it was difficult to sleep.
We arrived at nine o’clock and decided to anchor in the bay - it took us 3 attempts. The bottom appears to be mud and rock and I think we are holding. I hope that we can get the anchor up! I went to bed straight after breakfast.
We met Dave on “Peace and Plenty” (Aus); Ken and Marg on “ID” (Aus); and Richard, Brenda and Clint (12) on “Amatooana 2” (Aus).
26 November 1993 Las Palmas, Gran Canaria
I ran around doing shopping. Las Palmas is just another big town. The port is very oily and we have now got a nice black oily mark around the waterline. We made the mistake of landing the dinghy on the beach in the afternoon – oily and slimy. To cap it all, the anchorage is a little rolly. We’re not impressed.
27 November 1993 Las Palmas to Los Christianos, Tenerife (Day 1)
Rolly night. We motored around the north of the island. Spotted a couple of pilot whales. I chatted to Chintoo on the VHF. They have just left Puerto De Las Nieves and say that it is nice.
We went into Puerto De Las Nieves, but couldn’t figure out the best place to anchor. The pilot book doesn’t have any chartlets and the chart we have is not detailed enough. We ended up anchored in the bay between the old quay and a reef in 10 metres of water. It looks like a nice small fishing port and the cliffs in the surrounding area are very dramatic.
Unfortunately the wind swung through 180° and became gusty putting us about 20 metres from the reef. Our bottle went and we decided to sail to Tenerife overnight.
We left at four o’clock in the afternoon and sailed with a scrap of jib at 3-4 knots because we didn’t want to get to Los Christianos at night.
28 November 1993 Las Palmas to Los Christianos, Tenerife (Day 2)
What a beautiful night sail. 15 knots of wind on the starboard aft quarter, pleasant motion and clear sky with full moon. We continued to sail at 3-4 knots until about half past seven when I put the engine on about 4 miles from Los Christianos.
We arrived off Los Christianos at eight o’clock in the morning which was good timing. We decided to go to the marina at Puerto Colon, because Los Christianos anchorage looked crowded and we wanted to be in a secure berth prior to the crossing. We motored round to Puerto Colon but were told that there was no room. We went back to Los Christianos and anchored finally at about ten o’clock.
The bottom is rock and soft sand and I decided to dive down to check the set of the anchor. We went for a walk around town. It is very touristy and a bit of a struggle to get from the anchorage and onto the quay from the dinghy. I’ve never seen such a congregation of dinghies and such a rickety set of ladders.
We stopped at “Chintoo” for a chat and stayed 3½ hours. We met Steve and Marylyn (Joansy) from “Vintage Port” (Aus) and Jeff and Karen from “Timana” (Aus). The anchorage seems a bit rolly.
29 November 1993 Los Christianos, Tenerife
We did a bit of scouting around the town, while the boys played on the beach. Brett was inspired by seeing a “gypsy” making a beautiful sand sculpture of an alligator – so we had to make one! The sand is very fine and goes solid with just water.
We felt very unsettled during the day because we couldn’t decide whether to stay here or go to a marina. We finally decided to stay here with maybe a couple of nights in Gomera. “Chintoo”, “Vintage Port” and “Timana” came for a drink at half past five, Eddie and Fay stayed for dinner and went at eleven o’clock. Clint (12) came over from “Amatouana 2” to play with Brett and Craig.
30 November 1993 Los Christianos, Tenerife
The Port Captain came over at half past nine in the morning (while we were still in bed) and asked us to move. They have been moving yachts over the last two days because some have obviously been impeding the movements of the ferry. We thought that we were pretty safe being fairly close to the shore and well out of the way, but the port authorities have gone raving mad and are moving everyone to an area about 600 metres away from the quayside. We have no protection at all from the breakwater – I hope the good weather stays until John gets here!
I had a hangover and didn’t manage to get very much done. I caught 6 small bream, which we had for dinner. We went over to “Vintage Port” for farewell drinks and ended up staying for 3 hours.