1 July 1995 Admiralty Bay to Mustique
Another month gone. We did school work in the morning and then sailed and motored across to Mustique. I’ve just rigged up a lure on the fishing rod because I’ve lost a few lures on my fixed line/bungy rig. We’ve not caught a fish for months. I lost another lure today because I think that I had the clutch too tight – I’m really hacked off!
Glenys and I went for a snorkel while the boys went over to “Rose of Wight” to pick up Harry. We ended up on “Colleen” having a beer or four because it’s Mike’s birthday. We met Joe and Margaret of “Night Music” (GB). They were in Porto Santo for the storm of ’93, so there was a lot of reminiscing.
2 July 1995 Mustique
School work in the morning. “Night Music” asked Glenys if she could make some new covers for their horseshoe buoys, so she spent most of the afternoon sewing. I had another go at the bloody bilge pump, but I couldn’t get it working properly – I’ve given up and I’m going to spend £110 on a new one when we get back to Bequia.
I’m still persevering with learning scales on the clarinet – a new one each day. Brett and Craig spent the day playing with Harry. I filled 3 tanks. We had a quiet and rolly evening, as usual in Mustique.
3 July 1995 Mustique to Little Bay, Canouan
We rolled all night and I’m sick of it. We decided to skip school work and go to Canouan. Glenys used “Night Music’s” SSB radio and managed to talk to Gareth. He’s in St Vincent and will meet us in the Tobago Cays on the 5th or 6th.
We started off with a horrid, floppy, downwind sail, so we motored most of the way. We hooked a fish, but he got off as I was reeling him in. I think I need to service the reel and sharpen the hook – at least I didn’t lose my last lure!
We anchored in Little Bay and went for a dive. I started Glenys’ Rescue Diver theory. Just as we finished, it blew a hooley. Our anchor was well dug in, but we were being blown with our transom towards the beach – a lee shore (Oh my God). There was no-one else in the anchorage so there would be no lights for reference at night - so we moved to the main bay and picked up an empty mooring buoy in front of the hotel, which is now finished and very nice it looks too!
4 July 1995 Little Bay to Tobago Cays
We had very strong winds last night. I got up at midnight and put an extra rope through the mooring pennant. I couldn’t get to sleep because of worrying about the rope parting. I would have felt more secure being at anchor. At least if an anchor drags it is fairly slow; if the rope on a mooring breaks, we would go downwind at 5 knots and probably wouldn’t know about it until we hit something. I managed to nod off but was woken up again at half past two by 40 knot gusts and torrential rain. Glenys and I got up and took down the awning, which was flogging itself to bits. We survived the night.
School work in the morning. We had lunch and then motored round to South Glossy Bay, where Glenys and I did a dive. We then motored to the Tobago Cays which was surprisingly crowded. Roger and Pat from “Rawa” came for a beer and ended up staying to dinner. It’s Independence Day and some bloody Americans in a catamaran upwind from us kept letting off distress flares which were landing all around us. It wasn’t worth the hassle of complaining, so I got a bucket of water ready to put out the fire. Fortunately, the idiots soon ran out of flares.
5 July 1995 Tobago Cays
I slept like a log - this is such a fantastic anchorage. We did school work in the morning. I’m getting Craig to gradually write a book called “Fred the Frog” – he writes a few sentences on a new page each day and then draws a picture. He enjoys it and it’s teaching him to be neat. I’m afraid that I’ve got another personality conflict with Brett – I can’t stop myself criticising him. I’m going to have to get Glenys to tell him off for me.
It was fairly windy in the morning, so I got the windsurfer out. Of course the wind dropped to 10-15 knots as soon as I stood on the board. I had a pleasant, if frustrating afternoon reaching back and forth. I filled 4 tanks. “Dabulamanzi” arrived and typically, Gareth came over with a bottle of champagne to say hello. He told us all about Fi’s marathon, 14 hour delivery of their daughter. Gareth said that she’s called Molly, but then said that’s what he calls her – so her name might be something else!
He’ll be dropping his guests off in Mustique on the 16th and will meet us in Bequia before sailing off to Antigua, where he’ll leave the boat for a few months. He still expects to be chartering next year with a hired cook – Fi and Molly will live in Bequia, but (obviously) that could change.
6 July 1995 Tobago Cays
School work in the morning. After lunch, Glenys and I went for a dive with Joe from “Night Music”. I filled 3 tanks. I made a conch shell horn by cutting off the end off with a hacksaw. I’ve been wanting to make one for ages, but the ones that the fishermen leave in piles have all got holes in them. The fishermen make this hole with the back of a machette to break the vacuum allowing them to pull out the “lambi” with a wire hook. I finally found a complete empty shell on a dive a few days ago.
I managed to grab 20 minutes clarinet practice before Gareth came over for a beer. After that it was over to “Rose of Wight” for drinks.
7 July 1995 Tobago Cays
I did a Discover Scuba and an escorted dive with two Brits, John and William, from a Moorings boat. There was a wicked current outside the boat channel and John (the Discover Scuba guy) used his air up within 20 minutes. I filled 4 tanks.
We all went to Jamesby Island to have a look around. We climbed up to the top where there is a fabulous view of the Tobago Cays and surrounding reefs – I love the colour of the water. We went to “Mistral” for a drink – Brett and Ben seemed to get on together.
There is a tropical wave at 27°W which is being described as “strong”. These waves move at 5° of longitude per day so it should be here by the 13th. I hope that it doesn’t develop into anything. We will wait until the 10th before taking any action. The old mariner’s poem seems to be bang on:
June, Too soon.
July, Stand by!
August, Look out you must.
September, Remember.
October, All over.
Craig’s teeth continue to worry me. His front top tooth is still coming through behind his dead one and the dead one shows no sign of coming out yet. His back RH top molar is again a huge cavity because the filling put in in Antigua has fallen out. Teeth are definitely our biggest medical problem!
8 July 1995 Tobago Cays to Saline Bay, Mayreau
Wonderfully breezy night – I felt cool even with a sheet over me (bliss!) At bedtime, Brett complained that he was cold so he put some pyjamas on. He still complained that he was cold and wanted a blanket. I thought he was just messing us about so I called him a wimp. Glenys gave him a blanket and he spent all night wrapped up in it – what a rotten Dad!
The strong tropical wave is now at 32°W, no change. We motored over to Union Island and Glenys did some shopping. The boys and I went to look at the shark pool, which is interesting. I did a navigation lesson with Brett and he got us to Mayreau OK - I’ll have to do more with him.
We then anchored in Saline Bay next to “Rose of Wight”. I had to laugh at Harry and Laurel running up and down their deck shouting “Glencora’s here! Glencora’s here!” I finally found the location of the wreck of the Purina, a World War 1 Gunboat that hit the reef one night going to intercept a ship. Glenys and I went for a dive on it with Joe from “Night Music” – nice dive! We had a quiet night in for a change!
9 July 1995 Saline Bay, Mayreau
The strong tropical wave is now reported at 41°W with a low at 11°N 41°W (we are at 13°N 60°W). We have decided not to go back up to Bequia, but will go and clear out of Union tomorrow, so that we can go to Tyrell Bay to meet Gareth there (and sit out any crappy weather). If the low develops any further we will sail down to Grenada. We did school work in the morning. Glenys did some more upholstery in the afternoon while I played the clarinet and snorkelled.
10 July 1995 Saline Bay to Tyrell Bay, Carriacou
The strong wave is now at 47°W and the low is at 13°N 47°W which is good news because if it develops into anything it will probably track north (we are at 12°30’N). We sailed to Union Island, cleared out, then went into the Anchorage Yacht Club and filled up with water. We then sailed to Sandy Island where Glenys and I did a dive, before motoring around to Tyrell Bay.
I love Tyrell Bay. In my humble opinion, it is probably one of the most secure anchorages in the West Indies. We can also buy reasonably priced alcohol from the enterprising locals. I bought some beer at normal prices ($43EC/case compared to $55EC/case in Bequia). Dan from “White Bean” came for a beer.
11 July 1995 Tyrell Bay to Sandy Island
The strong wave is now at about 52°W, but I couldn’t pick up David on “Mistine” so I don’t know where the low is. “Rose of Wight” received a satellite shot which shows the low as a separate entity moving NW, so it shouldn’t bother us.
School work in the morning. Glenys rang Carol to get her to send mail to Trinidad. In the afternoon, Glenys spotted “Dabulamanzi” sailing past the bay, so she sent me out in the dinghy to see where they were going. I caught up with them just off the Sisters. Gareth and his guests were suitably amazed to be boarded while sailing along. I found out that they were going to stay at Sandy Island, so we went round to visit them.
The weather was very settled, so we stayed the night. It was a full moon so after dinner we went to the island for a moonlight play. We then went for a night snorkel and saw a stingray, a lobster, a spotted sea hare and loads of red night shrimp. I really enjoyed seeing the different creatures.
Gareth and his cook, Charlie, came over to the beach with a bottle of wine and some ice cream for the boys. We retired to Glencora for more wine and rum. Probably the last time we’ll see Gareth for a couple of years!
12 July 1995 Sandy Island to Tyrell Bay, Carriacou
The wave is at 57°W and will be here tonight. The low is now at 16°N 57°W, so is well out of our way. We’ll probably have unsettled weather for the next couple of days. I went to clear in at Hillsborough because we’ll probably stay here for a few days.
School work in the morning. Brett continues to be a pain about writing anything, so I wrote the start of a short story called “The Adventures of Ballistic Brett”, which we will get him to copy write to make a nice book like Craig’s “Fred the Frog”. Craig shows his book to everyone who comes on board and they are suitably impressed, so we hope this will be an incentive for Brett.
“Rose of Wight” came around for a day out, so we stayed at Sandy Island until late afternoon so that the boys could play with Harry and Laurel. We all went back to Tyrell Bay. “Rose of Wight” and “Colleen” came for a pot luck dinner, which was nice.
13 July 1995 Tyrell Bay, Carriacou
I was wrong about the weather. It appears that the low has sucked up all the unsettled weather - today was lovely. School work in the morning. Brett loves his story, but whinged and whined about writing in science– we can’t win!
After lunch, Glenys and I did the first four practical sessions of her Rescue Diver. I filled 4 tanks, had a quick chat with a few boats, an hour of clarinet practice and the day was gone.
14 July 1995 Tyrell Bay, Carriacou
School work in the morning. Clarinet practice, a visit to the Mangroves – another quiet day.
15 July 1995 Tyrell Bay, Carriacou
Lots of squalls around during the night and today – apparently the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ICTZ) is up to 13°N. I spent three hours trying to make a rotating earth/moon model from Lego Technic, but failed abysmally. School work, clarinet, time to move on!
16 July 1995 Tyrell Bay to St Georges Lagoon, Grenada
Up early, there’s a strong tropical wave at 47°W which will be here on Tuesday pm. The low that I was concerned about a couple of days ago is now tropical storm Chantelle and is at 25°N 68°W which is east of the Bahamas.
We had a pleasant sail to Ile De Ronde, where, as normal, it was too rolly to stay for the night. Glenys and I went for a dive and I made a judgement error deciding to circumnavigate the Sisters. We eventually surfaced on the opposite side of the rocks and I had to “frog march” Glenys back – I only had 20 bar left. (I think I’m getting too blasé and taking risks).
After the dive, we went back to the boat and were surprised to see a dive boat anchored next to us with Bob from Scuba World on board. We had a quick chat and said we would see each other in Grenada. We then motored to St Georges and anchored in the lagoon (even though “Moby Dick” got burgled about a week ago). We anchored behind Dave and Joyce of “Mood Indigo”. There are about 25 boats in the lagoon, which is a lot more than we expected.
17 July 1995 St Georges Lagoon to Prickly Bay, Grenada
An airless, humid night. Glenys and I rushed around in the morning getting cash, food and petrol. We then motored around to Prickly Bay which is very empty with only about 15 boats. I cleared in and then went to see Gary and Donna, but their flat was all locked up. I rang the La Source hotel and found out that he still works for them, so I’ll ring tomorrow.
Glenys went out at half past five to post a letter with the boys and came back very merry about two hours later – she’d bumped into “Night Music” in the bar…
The saga of Hog Island is still continuing. I asked the Customs and Immigration if we could go to Port Egmont, Mount Hartman and Hog Island and they said “Yes”. However, the coast guard keep moving people out of there and no-one knows why. Ian of “Manx Cat”, who has been spending hurricane season in Hog Island for 8 years, had some reporters around from the local newspaper, but even they couldn’t find out why yachts can’t stay in Hog Island overnight. It’s very frustrating because Hog Island is such a beautiful, protected anchorage, which is more than you can say for Prickly Bay and Mount Hartman which are both rolly.
18 July 1995 Prickly Bay to Mount Harman Bay, Grenada
School work in the morning. We motored around to Mount Hartman Bay, and anchored close to our old friends “Marina Em”. “Moby Dick” is here, so are “Manx Cat”. I managed to get through to Gary and he’s coming around tomorrow afternoon. The kids and Glenys went to the pool, but some guests complained because the hotel is supposed to be childless and they were asked to leave. We went to “Marina Em” for a beer or two to catch up on the last year. There are about 50 boats in Mount Hartman Bay.
19 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay, Grenada
Miserable weather last night and all day today – thunder storms and rain, rain, rain. I went into Woburn to catch a bus into St Georges to pick up the Grade 2 and Grade 4 school work. It was all there waiting for me which was good. Glenys did school work with both of the boys.
Gary came around in the afternoon and we caught up on gossip. He’s working full time at “La Source” doing 15 dives a week and enjoying it. He’s just moved into a new flat with a new girlfriend, Ros (Rosalind) who is Aussie and also works at “La Source”. Sounds like he’s doing better now that he’s escaped from Mad Bob. Our evening meal was spoiled by the squalls and heavy rain – I hate this weather. Gary was suitable impressed by “Fred the Frog.”
20 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay, Grenada
Another miserable night. We’re starting to get cranky with each other because the heat and the humidity are oppressive. I now know what they mean when they talk about the suicidal moods in India when the monsoon season is approaching!
Schoolwork in the morning, then Glenys and I went for a dive with Tony from “Marina Em”. What an animal he is, ripping lobsters out of their holes by hand. I tried and partly dismembered mine before I got it out. I filled 2 tanks.
“Marina Em” has a cute little cat which is a bit of a wild one. It scratched Marina on the nose yesterday and they are thinking of getting rid of it – do we want it? We thought about it for 24 hours and decided that it was too much hassle – litter tray, cat food, quarantine back in the UK – I don’t think so, we’ll get one back in the UK!
We were meant to meet Gary for a beer, but he didn’t show up. I walked up to his flat and found out that he was in bed with flu. Glenys and I had a few beers at the bar and went back to the boat. We didn’t get the boys into bed until quarter past ten. One of the consequences of this is that they stay awake for ½ hour, which has a detrimental effect on our sex life because they are only 8 metres away from our bed...
21 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay, Grenada
Still squally weather - now being caused by the ITCZ. We filled up with fuel and water. I tightened up the stern gland and pumped out the engine bilge. No school work today.
After lunch, we went round to Hog Island on “Marina Em” and did some water skiing. Tony used to be in the British Water Skiing Team when he was younger, but he hasn’t skied much for 10 years. After a couple of false starts (my fault because I was scared of his 25hp outboard), he got onto one ski and looked really good. I skied on two skis for my first go and then on my second go I dropped one ski and skied mono – fantastic! “Marina Em” came for dinner and we had ”Lobster Aromatique” which was very nice. I’m afraid that we drank 4 bottles of wine between us.
22 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay, Grenada
No school work. We went for a walk up to the Pig Farm, saw the pigs, but unfortunately the factory shop was shut – we had to walk to the village and get some chicken (again!) We had lunch and then went for a dive with Tony and Dee. After the dive I felt really tired – I finished a book and tried to play the clarinet, but gave up as I was terrible. I was asleep by nine o’clock!
23 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay to Hog Island
Squally weather again caused by the ITCZ. We have been invaded by houseflies which have the annoying habit of chasing each other. They buzz around and land on our uncovered bodies, which at six o’clock in the morning is very annoying. The only way that I can sleep is to hide under the sheet but then I get so hot that I have to get up. Very frustrating.
We decided to go around to Hog Island for the barbeque. It was beautiful and peaceful with only one other boat in the anchorage – a bit of a difference from last year! By two o’clock, there were two other boats here “Marina Em” and “Nina“ (NZ) with Dave, Mandy and Sam (9). The barbeque didn’t get going until about four o’clock. We just went over for a few beers then ate on the boat. Lovely peaceful night.
24 July 1995 Hog Island to Mount Harman Bay
Beautiful quiet morning in Hog Island – feels like home. We did schoolwork in the morning and sat on the boat. It’s amazing here, we are in paradise and we just do things on the boat – the boys played with Lego, Glenys is upholstering and I’m writing a letter to the Estate Agent! At two o’clock, we went back around to Mount Hartman before the coast guard turned up to throw us out. We spent the afternoon doing our own things.
25 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay
Short school work in the morning because it was a test – Lesson 140. Only 20 to go to the end of this year. The end is in sight!
I walked to Grand Anse to look for some Teva sandals, but no joy – I’ll have to wait until Trinidad. I spent the afternoon looking through the pilot for Venezuela – I’m starting to get itchy feet and I need a plan. “Marina Em” came over for a beer and Tony went through the places that they have visited in Venezuela.
The house flies continue to be really annoying. We have been told that the locals fill clear plastic bags with water and hang them up in their rooms - allegedly this drives the flies away. We’re getting desperate, so we now have two bags hanging from the ceiling in the saloon and in our back cabin.
26 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay
School work in the morning. After lunch we went for a dive with Tony and Dee. We then went waterskiing and I managed to do a mono start – wow! Brett kept asking if he could have a go and we eventually let him have a go. To our amazement, he managed to get up on Tony’s adult sized skis! He went about 200 metres before pulling his arms in and falling. Brilliant!
Gary and Ros came for dinner which was very pleasant. I made the mistake of trying to play the clarinet after I’d had a few beers – I could hardly talk, never mind coordinate my embouchure and fingers!
27 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay
No school work this morning – I was feeling a bit delicate! Glenys remembered that yesterday was our 15th wedding anniversary, so I gave her a kiss. We had a lovely wedding anniversary anyway! I slobbed about in the morning finishing a book and we then went for a dive with “Marina Em”. I filled 4 tanks. We went for a beer on “Marina Em” and gave them a preview of Tobago.
28 July 1995 Mount Harman Bay to Hog Island
School work in the morning, then around to Hog Island. The boys and I went for a walk across to the Coconut Beach. The locals have hacked down a lot of trees and are making charcoal. We had a good look at their charcoal pit.
The Coconut Beach has been taken over by hundreds of wasps/hornets which are buzzing around about 6” off the ground. They have dug themselves individual burrows in the sand. Interesting, but a bit worrying when walking amongst them. We had a quiet night after beating back the swarm of mosquitoes that arrived at six o’clock.
29 July 1995 Hog Island to Calvigny Harbour
We motored around to Calvigny Harbour in company with “Marina Em”. Interesting pilotage to get there and what a beautiful anchorage – calm and peaceful with only 3 other boats in here. We did two good dives; on the second one I caught a 6lb and a 2lb lobster. Both sides of the channel into Calvigny Harbour are good lobster dive sites. We took our 6lb lobster tail and legs over to “Marina Em” and had dinner there.
30 July 1995 Calvigny Harbour
Tony and I went for a dive in the morning, but the seas were too high to get out past the entrance, so we dived inside in very murky water. Tony took his spear gun and did a passable imitation of Clint Eastwood, shooting everything that he saw, (which wasn’t much!)
We had a quiet, lazy afternoon before going to “Marina Em” to have a fish fondue, which was great fun – dipping the bits of filleted fish in egg, breadcrumbs and the hot fat. We called it a day at nine o’clock as everyone (especially Tony) is starting to feel the strain of being together for so long – we’ve had constant daily contact for 10 days and it’s enough! I filled 3 tanks.
31 July 1995 Calvigny Harbour to Mount Harman Bay
Went for a dive with Tony and Dee. I took a spear gun with me for the first time ever and shot about 8 assorted fish. Good fun and it gets dinner. We motored around to Mount Hartman and anchored behind “Manx Cat”. I rang Gary and they’ve arranged for us to go to “La Source” for the day – Brett and Craig are so excited.
Ian and Terri from “Manx Cat” came for a musical soirée. They were very impressed with Band-in-a-Box and I had a wonderful 2 hours playing tunes on my clarinet with Ian.