1 December 1994 Wallilabou, St Vincent to Marigot, St Lucia
We motored up the coast and then bashed and crashed for half an hour after we cleared the north coast of St Vincent. The rest of the sail was OK in 25 knot winds. We motored up the coast of St Lucia into Marigot Bay. It took us four attempts to anchor, much to the interest of the boat boys and other boats at anchor! We just kept dragging when we went astern.
Eventually it “kind of held”, so we left it at that – I hope the wind doesn’t blow hard! We met Suzie and Stan on “Corby” (UK/Aus) who know Gareth and Fi well. They embroider t-shirts for a living. Stan says the best technique for anchoring here is to drop the anchor and just let it sink into the mud!
2 December 1994 Marigot to Soufriere
The boys played on a rope swing while Glenys and I cleared in and did a bit of shopping. It threw it down so we were late leaving Marigot. We motored around to the Hummingbird at Soufriere and anchored with a NNE wind blowing us ashore. We had a persistent boat boy who wanted to tie us up to a tree ashore. We’re the only boat here - God knows how they make a living tying people up for £1.
After lunch, we walked through town and to the Diamond Baths. This is a botanical garden, attached to a large plantation, complete with its own hot mineral springs and a waterfall. We went equipped with bathing shorts, but didn’t bother because it would have cost us an extra £6 and the pools were tiny. The gardens were pleasant and we were lucky enough to see a huge 2 inch black wasp dragging a 4 inch diameter, dead spider through the undergrowth – shudder!
3 December 1994 Soufriere
School work in the morning. Craig decided that he didn’t want to read his book to me – I think that I’m pushing him too hard and he’s frightened of being seen not knowing some words. I must try not to be so domineering! Glenys and I went for a dive after lunch and then I went for a walk along the road to Anse Chastanet. We had dinner to the sound of a very loud disco at the new hotel on the beach.
4 December 1994 Soufriere to Marigot
We motored around to Anse Chastanet, where Glenys and I went for a dive. After that we motored around to Marigot and had a lazy afternoon. I read a book, the boys played on a rope swing and Glenys went for a walk around the hotels.
5 December 1994 Marigot to Rodney Bay
We motored around to Castries and anchored in the town port. Glenys and I went and got some cash and did a big shop. We then motored around to Rodney Bay and pottered around for the rest of the day.
6 December 1994 Rodney Bay
Glenys did school work while I altered the spray hood frame. After lunch, I went to check out the chandlers – very expensive.
7 December 1994 Rodney Bay
Glenys did school work while I checked out the stern gland, steering and emergency tiller. The boys are driving Glenys crazy – they won’t get off the boat and they’re under her feet all the time. I had a long session on the clarinet. I’m getting a lot better now – I can sight read about 20 songs and make a fair attempt at them.
8 December 1994 Rodney Bay
Glenys did school work with Craig while I went into town with Brett. I stopped by a music shop, bought a book on playing jazz music, and some reeds. I also arranged to take my clarinet on Monday to have it serviced and to have a half hour lesson. The guy doesn’t sell 1½ strength reeds, he starts people off on 2’s. I have to start using 2’s.
Brett bought Christmas presents for Craig, Glenys and Grandma – I couldn’t find anything for Glenys. When we got back to the boat, I cleaned the clarinet and skimmed through the jazz book. I’ve decided that I’ve got a lot to learn and I should be practicing scales.
9 December 1994 Rodney Bay
I was up at half past six writing out the 12 major scales, I then did school work with Brett while Glenys took Craig into town. I had a practice on the clarinet – I’ve decided that my embouchure is too weak, my breathing is wrong, my fingering is incorrect and my posture is wrong. All in all I’m useless and I sound awful. I think I need to start again from basics.
10 December 1994 Rodney Bay
I was up at half past six and started to repair the computer. I decided to graft a piece of ribbon cable onto the damaged display lead. This involved carefully scraping away the insulation and soldering 40 connections with the aid of a magnifying glass. It took me 5 hours but the computer works!!
We had a ”caveman” lunch of chicken legs, mashed potatoes and beans. This took place on the front deck with everyone using their fingers to eat with. We had no manners and snatched food from each other, wiped our very mucky hands on ourselves and threw food about. The boys loved it! Glenys spent the afternoon making flags for “Hedonis”. My clarinet playing is demoralising.
11 December 1994 Rodney Bay
We had a quiet morning and then went out for lunch. We stumbled right into the thick of the “ARC Rally” party, full of loud people who have just crossed the Atlantic. We managed to get something to eat and chatted to Suzie and Stan from “Corby”.
12 December 1994 Rodney Bay
I went into town and had my clarinet looked at. The guy said that my mouthpiece has too small a gap between it and the reed. I tried a new mouthpiece with a 2½ strength reed and sounded very much better. I therefore had to buy a new mouthpiece and some 2½ and 3 reeds. He said that my embouchure and stance were OK, but my timing and breathing were poor. He suggests that I concentrate on scales and sustained notes, but all in all I’m fairly pleased and I have a new surge of confidence.
Glenys did school work and remodelled part of the spray hood which looks a lot better. We had some “Dive Glencora” hats made by Suzie on “Corby”, which are fun.
13 December 1994 Rodney Bay
School work in the morning. It was blowing 20 knots, so I put up the windsurfer and guess what - the wind dropped to 10 knots. Oh well! Glenys had some Dutch courage at lunchtime and then went around the boats at anchor, selling her wares. She went to one boat, got £45 of business and came back! Some people from “Morning Flight” called and bought a flag kit. We went to the beach to watch the “ARC” people party again.
14 December 1994 Rodney Bay
We filled up with water. I then filled 6 tanks which was a bit of a struggle because the engine kept cutting out on me after it had been running for 20 minutes. I changed the oil on the petrol engine and cleaned the air filter. It then ran OK for 45 minutes, so I assume that it was the oil level? We met Dennis and Shirley from “Spoiler II” (NZ) and Jim from “Reiger” (UK).
15 December 1994 Rodney Bay
We spent all day tidying up. “Spoiler II” and “Reiger” came for a beer.
16 December 1994 Rodney Bay to Marigot
We went around to Castries and Glenys went shopping. We saw Jimmy and Marion from “Moby Dick” who we last saw in El Castillo, Fuerteventura last November. They shouted hello as they motored past us on their way to Rodney Bay, so we’ll catch up with them in a couple of days. We motored round to Marigot and picked up Ceris. We got loads of mail but thankfully no tax demands.
17 December 1994 Marigot to Rodney Bay
We motored around to Castries. Glenys, Ceris and Brett went into town while I played the clarinet. We then motored around to Rodney Bay, where Ceris and the boys went to the beach while Glenys and I went to the marina. Glenys sold some flags for £45 and we stopped off at “Moby Dick” for a quick chat.
We all then went to the St Lucia Yacht Club to see Santa. We didn’t know, but parents had to bring a present for their own kids. Glenys rushed back to the boat and wrapped two presents, arriving back just as Santa arrived on a dinghy – phew! Santa zoomed past and then disappeared off towards Pigeon Island to the total bewilderment of the children. Apparently, it wasn’t the yacht club’s Santa! The “proper” Santa arrived in the back of a pickup truck and a good time was had by all. It was wonderful to watch the anticipation on the childrens’ faces as Santa handed out the presents.
18 December 1994 Rodney Bay
We pottered around in the morning and went out to a bar for lunch. We stayed around the pool in the afternoon. Jimmy and Marion from “Moby Dick” came for a drink.
19 December 1994 Rodney Bay
Glenys went to help Jimmy make a canvas cover for his dinghy - the strong sunshine tends to make the rubber perish quickly. Ceris went into town and I played on the computer all day. The boys entertained themselves. In the evening we made a paper Christmas tree.
20 December 1994 Rodney Bay to Pigeon Island
Filled up with fuel. Motored over to Pigeon Island and spent a very pleasant afternoon wandering around the National Park, looking at the old British Fort. We saw “Metani” but only had a quick chat because they had charter guests.
21 December 1994 Pigeon Island to Fort de France, Martinique
We had a very nice sail to Martinique and anchored in Fort De France. We then spent an hour having a quick look around – the boys had a McDonald’s meal, of course. Talked to Mike of “Teliba”, a Greek who emigrated to the States and then left. Fort De France anchorage is very busy and very rolly because of the wash caused by the ferries. Fortunately, it calmed down at night.
22 December 1994 Fort de France to Anse a L’Ane
“Dabulamanzi” arrived during the night. Glenys and I went for a frenzied shop to buy Christmas presents for each other and the boys. Glenys and Ceris then went to a Hypermarche with Gareth, Fiona and Fiona’s brother, James. Glenys and Ceris came back alone and we motored over to Anse A L’ane for a bit of peace and quiet. “Dabulamanzi” followed later and they came over for a bottle of wine or two.
23 December 1994 Anse a L’Ane to Petite Anse D’Arlet
Ceris went to Fort De France on “Dabulamanzi”. James came with us to Petit Anse D’Arlet and joined us for a dive. Not a very interesting dive, but James seemed to enjoy it. I filled 3 tanks - the compressor only runs for about 20 minutes and then cuts out. I don’t know what is wrong with it – perhaps the compressor is getting too hot and causing the engine to stall. “Dabulamanzi” came around in the late afternoon and rafted up with us.
24 December 1994 Petite Anse D’Arlet
Christmas Eve - a leisure day. The boys were very excited and had to be entertained. Fortunately Uncle Gareth was there to take them water-skiing and snorkelling. We had a late, boozy dinner on our boat with fireworks.
25 December 1994 Petite Anse D’Arlet
Christmas Day. Breakfast and then present opening on our boat. Everyone did well. We had lunch at about three o’clock and then untangled the anchor chains by turning the boats with Gareth’s dinghy. We had a jointly prepared Christmas Dinner on Dabulamanzi at eight o’clock in the evening.
26 December 1994 Petite Anse D’Arlet
Another leisure day. Snorkelling, Lego Technic, skiing on a windsurf board. Very nice dinner of prawn consommé followed by smoked salmon and caviar pancakes. James, the boys and I ate ours while watching a video – very decadent!
27 December 1994 Petite Anse D’Arlet to St Pierre
We said farewell to Gareth, Fiona and James. It may be the last time that we see them for several years if we go through Panama. We motored around to Fort De France to clear out, but the customs guy had gone by the time we got there. I cleared out with the police and went food shopping. Filled up with water. We then motored around to St Pierre.
28 December 1994 St Pierre
Ceris took the boys out on the “Noddy Train” while Glenys and I did a dive on one of the wrecks. Filled 2 tanks. It got very rolly in the afternoon so I suggested that we ate out – everyone took one look at the boat rolling and shouted “Yes”! We had a very nice French meal in a very (typically!) scruffy restaurant. John and Chris arrived on “Naia” with some mail for us. They have their owners on board, so we haven’t had much of a chat.
There is a submarine operating from here, which takes tourists out to see the wrecks. They have a floating dock for the submarine which they raise each night. The boys and I went to watch it being lowered this morning. They have a small pilot boat that goes out on every trip, which displays “restricted in ability to manoeuvre” to signify the underwater operation. The pilot boat puts itself between the submarine and any other vessel when the submarine is surfacing. Very interesting to watch. They also have a night trip - it’s very eerie when the submarine is surfacing with all its deck lights on and a strobe.
29 December 1994 St Pierre to Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica
What a horrible night! We rolled our guts out. We got up at seven o’clock, exhausted. There was only 10-15 knots of wind and our batteries have been very low, so we motor-sailed all the way to Dominica. I think that I’ve got a dodgy battery or two because it doesn’t take long for the batteries to be fully charged and then they discharge quickly. We anchored to the north of Portsmouth, next to “Naia” who had left St Pierre before us. We had a fast trip averaging 6.25 knots. We were engulfed by boat boys who are persistent but OK.
30 December 1994 Prince Rupert Bay
We went for an organised trip up the Indian river, which was pleasant. They rowed us about ½ mile up river and back for £5/head. Ceris and the boys went to visit the Cabrit National Park while I indulged myself with two hours of playing the clarinet. John and Chris came over from “Naia” to have a drink and gave us a graphic description of life on the boat with their owners - not happy...
31 December 1994 Prince Rupert Bay to Bourg Des Saintes
Ceris and Glenys went to the Saturday vegetable market first thing in the morning. We then tidied up and left for the Saintes. We had an awkward sail between squalls with the wind veering about. Fortunately, we didn’t get rained on. I was confused by the approach to the islands and we ended up about 2 miles east of our planned landfall – I tested myself by only looking at the GPS when I’d figured out where we were! We definitely had a more interesting entrance to go through!
We anchored off the fishing village where there is more room, but it is a little bit rolly. We went for a quick stroll, had dinner and went to bed – a very exciting New Year’s Eve! Glenys and I were woken up by loud bangs at midnight, so we got up to watch the fireworks display.