As I approached my fiftieth birthday, I wondered what I could do to mark the momentous occasion. It came to me one evening while I was staring into a glass of Merlot - climb the Matterhorn. Now I'd done a little bit of rock climbing on crags in the Peak District with Glenys and our children, but nothing in the way of scaling mountains. I hadn't even done much hiking since I was in the Boys Scouts.