21 November 1994 Mustique to Bequia
We started to sail to Baliceaux, but it was a bit rough bashing to windward, so we headed more downwind to Friendship Bay, Bequia. We roared in on a reach down 6 ft waves, dropped the sails, had a look and decided not to stay because it looked very rolly and not too interesting. We sailed across to Admiralty Bay and anchored off Princess Margaret Beach. There were lots of gusts coming through, so I went windsurfing. “Dabulamanzi” arrived and came for dinner.
22 November 1994 Bequia
Play day today. I did a lot of windsurfing - Gareth did some too. We played boules on the beach and I showed the boys how to play “getting the stick” on a rope swing. Glenys dropped by at “Manx Cat” and Ian loaned us some sheet music to photocopy. We went to “Dabulamanzi” for dinner.
23 November 1994 Bequia
Pottering about day. I did some jobs and went snorkelling.
24 November 1994 Bequia
I went over to Kingstown, St Vincent on the ferry and exhausted myself walking around. I didn’t get any good ideas for Christmas presents for Glenys. Glenys did school work.
25 November 1994 Bequia
Miserable rainy day. We did school work and then I practised the clarinet. The boys have got the habit of pushing past me to get into the back cabin. I’ve been telling them off if they push past. Craig did it again so I shouted at him. This seemed to be the final straw to Glenys, who went crackers, told me that “you’re always playing that thing!” and stomped off to the shops. It would appear that my inexpert playing is getting on her nerves, combined with the fact that she thinks that I’ve got better things to do!
26 November 1994 Bequia
Blew a hooley today, so it was school work in the morning and windsurfing the rest of the day – much to Glenys’ disgust! (I didn’t play the clarinet, though!)
27 November 1994 Bequia
Very, very rolly night. Waves were crashing onto the beach so we decided to move over to the other side of the bay. We went for a Sunday lunch at “The Old Fig Tree” and spent the rest of the day lounging about – just like you should on a Sunday. We had crackers and cheese and fruit sponge pudding for dinner.
28 November 1994 Bequia to Petit Byahaut, St Vincent
We filled up with water and fuel then motor-sailed across to St. Vincent. It was very bouncy for the first half hour because of a squall. We anchored in Petit Byahaut which is a lovely little bay with a secluded hotel – the only access is by the sea! Glenys and I did a dive off the headland which was very good.
I took the boys around to the next headland in the dinghy to a bat cave. The entrance is through a big cave which rapidly narrows and you can swim through a small entrance into a very narrow cave. It is about 3ft to 6ft wide, about 30 ft high, 100ft long and has water to a depth of 20ft. The sea surges through from the other entrance. I went through by myself – Craig and Brett very sensibly declining the opportunity! There are thousands of bats in the cave and the surge was not too bad at the exit. I swam around the headland, then brought the boys back.
We all went in for a look and they were suitably impressed. I then foolishly asked if anyone wanted to go completely through – they both said yes. I suggested that Craig hang onto my back which he did, Brett hung onto him. All went well until a big surge came in. I steadied us on the rocks but unfortunately the surge swept Brett and Craig over my head and proceeded to bounce them off the sides of the passage. They panicked and we made our escape to their anguished screams.
Fortunately we escaped with just a few scratches and bruises – a very silly thing for me to have done! The anchorage was getting a bit more rolly as the day drew on so we re-anchored and put out a stern anchor – I think that it’s a bit better.
29 November 1994 Petit Byahaut to Cumberland Bay
What a night! By about eight o’clock, the swell was still rolling us about and we could hear the waves crashing against the rocks at both sides of the small bay. Eventually, I decided to rig up a long line from our bow to a mooring buoy in the middle of the bay because if our stern anchor dragged we could be swung uncomfortably near to the north side of the bay. Once I’d done that I slept a bit better (but not much!)
I got up at half past six, removed the mooring line and went to take a picture of the bat cave. We motored around to Cumberland Bay and anchored stern-to the beach with a line to a coconut tree. Glenys bought some fruit and some fish from the boat boys (yellow tail snappers, I think). The boys and I went for a quick play in the river, but didn’t mange to catch anymore fresh water fish for our mayonnaise jar aquarium.
We went for a dive and caught a lobster. Filled 4 tanks . We went to Steven’s Beach Bar for a few beers and decided that it would be very nice to run a bar/restaurant by the side of a tropical beach!
30 November 1994 Cumberland Bay to Wallilabou Bay
We had a rude awakening at seven in the morning by fishermen who wanted us to move so they could seine net. In a half daze we motored around to Wallilabou. We had the expected hassle from the boat boys and were helped to tie up for 5EC (eventually!) We ended up at an angle to the beach so the swell was making us roll. We removed the shoreline, re-anchored and re-tied the shore line.
What was amazing is that we did it without incurring any further “help”. The boat boys are extremely persistent and some are very rude if you don’t buy anything. Glenys went mad when she heard one of them calling her a “cheap woman”, and shouted at them all to “Go Away!” I did a quick reccy for a dive site, but there wasn’t anything spectacular, so we didn’t bother.
I went to clear out at two o’clock so that I wouldn’t incur any overtime charges. I was told that the customs don’t turn up until half past four, which, of course, is in overtime! I was fuming and sulked until quarter past four. I spotted the customs guy arriving, rushed over and gave him a sob story about having waited all day for him. He was, surprisingly, very nice and I didn’t get charged overtime.
By nightfall there were about 15 yachts lined up along the beach, with hordes of boat boys in craft, ranging from brightly coloured row boats to a raft made from a pallet. Our last caller was at nine o’clock and was a pathetic sounding bloke with some mangy looking fruit in a bag, begging for some pasta or other food “to go with his fish” – it must have taken 10 minutes to get rid of him. A beautiful place filled with awful people who are too used to handouts.
- << Prev
- Next