1 April 1995 Pinneys Beach to Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Up early and motored through the Narrows. We ended up bucking a strong current so it took us 2 hours to travel 8 miles to clear the channel. We found that the wind was east instead of ENE which we had yesterday. We would have ended up in Montserrat if we had sailed so we motor-sailed all the way to Antigua!
It was extremely unpleasant bashing to windward for 10 hours with 20 knot winds on the nose. The motion and spray was so bad that it was very hard to find a place to read, so I just sat around, watching the horizon and wishing we were there. The boys are great; they just get on with it.
We were on port tack all the way and found that we’ve got a leak or leaks in the deck/deck fittings. The front cabin cushions were wet through. We had about 4” of water in the starboard locker behind the saloon seat – fortunately we only keep tins or drink in there. We also had a number of drips coming from the head linings. I suspect the stanchions are loose and need resealing but I’ll have to take the head linings down to find out – sometimes I hate boats!
We arrived in Antigua, tired, salt encrusted and sunburnt with a damp boat and no fresh water. We had a quick rub with a damp flannel and went out to see if “Dabulamanzi” was around – they’re not! We only had $100 EC so we had a few beers and bought some rotis to take back to the boat. It’s hell not having any fresh water. I would have paid $10 US for a nice hot shower before I collapsed, exhausted, into bed. Sometimes I hate living on a boat!
2 April 1995 Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
We put out the cushions to dry in the sun and tidied up after the mayhem of yesterday! We motored around to the Catamaran Club for fuel and water. We went to clear customs and bought some food. After lunch we relaxed and lounged about.
“Dabulamanzi” arrived in the evening and we had Gareth, Fiona and Jill (Fiona’s mum) over for a beer or two. Fiona is going back to the UK in a couple of weeks, so that she can have her baby , which is due on 5 June (coincidently my birthday.) Gareth is staying on “Dabulamanzi” to complete charters which are booked in June and July. He’ll then fly to the UK to see Fiona and the baby – it’s a shame that he’ll miss the birth but “C’est la Vie”.
They’ve put “Dabulamanzi” up for sale and hope to sell it as a charter business for about $200K US. Then, who knows? Gareth is looking for something to do – ideas range from catering for yachts using a freeze dry method, to buying a small ship and doing luxury charters! Whatever they do I think it will involve boats and the Caribbean.
Antigua is in a bit of political turmoil – they have just slapped a 25% tax on all imported goods – this has had the effect of increasing the cost of at least 75% of the goods in the shops. The whole of Antigua went on strike for 2 days a week ago. Gareth is talking about taking “Dabulamanzi” over to St Martin to buy provisions for 3 weeks chartering. Since Fiona is indisposed at the moment, Glenys or I may go with him back to St Martin!
3 April 1995 Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Glenys did school work in the morning while I ran around getting cash and checking out a few things locally. We lounged about in the afternoon and had a quiet night by ourselves. I chatted to Peter and Karen from “Tanee” who we first met in Trinidad.
4 April 1995 Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
I went into St John’s with Craig to see the dentist. Dr Raj remembered us and thanked me for the nice letter I sent him. He put another temporary filling in Craig’s top back molar. We will go back in a couple of weeks and maybe have a permanent one put in. He wouldn’t take any money off me which was very, very nice - imagine a dentist doing that in England!
Glenys did school work with Brett. When we got back to the boat, I put a new connector on my printer power supply and printed some stuff off. I’ve been sorting out an outline for a kind of autobiography – it’s interesting how much time it takes to write and structure my thoughts. I’m looking for a humorous style (like James Herriot) but it’s not easy!
Glenys did a few jobs in the afternoon and then we went to “Dabulamanzi” for a TV dinner and watched The Lion King - luxury!
5 April 1995 Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Feeling a bit dull today. I helped Glenys with the school work in the morning. In the afternoon, I wandered about buying a few bits and then had a tootle on the clarinet. Gareth, Fi and Jill came for dinner on “Glencora”.
6 April 1995 Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Glenys did school work. I started to do a job needing a drill. My rechargeable drill was flat so I decided to get the 240V generator going. I started to pull it to bits and decided that it was in an awful state. I ended up dismantling the case, wire brushing it and getting it ready to paint.
Gareth came over and invited me to go for a race on an Oyster 55 called “Flying Scotsman” which was fun - I never cease to be amazed how these crews can throw a big yacht around the buoys. The start line was mayhem with lots of huge yachts milling about, mostly just missing each other by a couple of feet as they fought for position before the gun.
I met Peter and Shirley from “Flying Scotsman” and Darah and Brian from “Blue Monsoon”. Darah is a dentist and has set up a floating dental practice on their catamaran – she seems to be doing very well. It’s the start of a new UK tax year – we’ve been out for two full tax years now.
7 April 1995 Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Glenys went to “Blue Monsoon” to get a filling done which had chipped. She said it was very good if somewhat surreal sitting in a dentist’s chair in the cockpit of a boat - only cost £5 as well! She then went into town with Jill.
I stayed on the boat and painted the generator. We went snorkelling in the afternoon and teased a small lobster. Glenys brought back some Grade 1 piano music for me and a children’s beginner book for the boys. That should keep us occupied for a while.
8 April 1995 Falmouth Harbour, Antigua
Glenys did school work in the morning. I looked at the outboard which seems to be overheating. The “telltail” stream of water is intermittent so I suspect we have a faulty impellor. Unfortunately, it’s Saturday so I’ve got no chance of getting it done until Monday. I reassembled the generator, but will have to wait until tomorrow to try it.
I walked around to English Harbour and talked to Peter, Katie, Emma and James on “Bullwinkle” who want to do an Open Water Course. I agreed to do it for $320 each, so they start on Wednesday. I went over to “Blue Monsoon” and Brian agreed to lend me two sets of gear for $50 US for 5 days, so I’m all set!
9 April 1995 Falmouth Harbour to English Harbour
We motored around to English Harbour and anchored in the outer part called Freeman Bay. We were escorted into the anchorage by 3 dolphins! I had a chat to Mal and Meryl from “Dolly Madison” who we met in Grenada when we first arrived in the Caribbean.
Peter from “Bullwinkle” told me that yesterday he had 70% agreed to do an Open Water Course with the local “Dockland Divers” but has now cancelled it. I’m a bit worried about “Dockland Divers” attitude when they find out that I’ve taken their business. I might go and see the boss about a job and mention that I’m doing a course for some friends. I’ll also mention that I’ll be leaving Antigua at the end of the month. Hopefully, I can pre-empt any trouble.
We walked up to Shirley Heights along a path that runs on the ridge from English Harbour. It was quite an interesting walk but very hot even at half past four. We had a few beers and listened to the steel band. There is a spectacular view from up there and we were lucky enough to see the plumes from a pod of whales (probably humpback whales). We took a taxi back down to the boat.
10 April 1995 English Harbour
I got up early and organised myself for the Open Water Course.
I went into see Tony Wickham of “Dockland Divers”. I started off by asking him for a job and then mentioned that I’d be busy for the next week because I’ve been roped into doing a course. His instant reaction was I can’t do that because it’s illegal. I said I was doing it as a favour for some friends, he said that the authorities took a dim view of people working without a permit. I said I wasn’t being paid. He said that they had spent thousands of dollars setting up a business and didn’t like people coming here and stealing business. I said that they were friends that we’d met in St Lucia and I was doing it as a favour and after all it was only a one-off event. He eventually, begrudgingly accepted it and still seemed fairly keen to give me some work! Time will tell!
I ran around doing a few chores and then went into town to get a new impellor for the outboard. We then went to “Moby Dick” for a beer with Jimmy, Marion, Stuart and Alison (their Daughter). Stuart and Allison were living in Belize for a couple of years, so we had an interesting chat about diving and tourist sights.
11 April 1995 English Harbour
We filled up with water and then had an amazing amount of trouble anchoring. The holding is really crap in some places and the boats are all swirling around, so you don’t know where you are! We ended up on a mooring that a guy on another yacht said was available – the owner of this mooring has his boat tied up in the mangroves, so we’ll stay here!
I painted a watercolour map for Gareth’s birthday, which came out OK. Glenys and I went for a dive to check out a training site – pretty boring. “Blue Monsoon” arrived back from Guadeloupe in the afternoon, so I went over and borrowed his two sets of gear. I then spent an hour switching regulators and testing kit. I’m still very nervous about the reaction of “Dockland Divers” when he puts two and two together and realises that I’ve pinched $1600 worth of business off him!
12 April 1995 English Harbour
Up early and teaching “Bullwinkle” at eight o’clock. I did Theory 1 and Theory 2 in the morning and Confined Water 1 and 2 in the afternoon. All four of them are very good. Peter is the more nervous, being a poor swimmer – I made him swim 200 metres to check him out after lunch. I filled 6 tanks. No hassle from “Dockland Divers” yet – hopefully I won’t get any!
The gear that I borrowed from “Blue Monsoon” is a mixed bag. I’ve been using a BCD with an Air II and a Poseidon regulator. The regulator has a very high intermediate pressure and scares me to death every time I purge it! The Air II is a bit of a pain in that I don’t have an Octopus regulator. I have to swap to the Air II on critical skills. Also, the Air II has a habit of filling the BCD if you press the deflate button when the Air II is lower than your shoulder. I think that it’s because the regulator part starts free flowing. Having said that it was a good day!
Brett and Craig played with Dorian (7) from “Namati” (USA), his Mum and Dad are Diane and Bob.
13 April 1995 English Harbour
Got up at six o’clock and tried to fix the outboard which is getting worse. Stripped it down to find out that the impellor is OK but the pump housing looks odd – I can’t put my finger on what is wrong. Put it back together and it’s even worse – so bad that I’m scared to use it. Fortunately Gareth has an old 5hp which he lent us and I got going at lunch time.
I did Theory 3 & 4 in the morning and only managed to squeeze in Confined Water 3 in the afternoon. The visibility off the beach was appalling – so bad that I had to leave two of them on the surface by the dinghy while I did CESA and no mask swimming with the other two. The Confined Water today was a bit of a rush because we had a two hour lunch, so that they could go to the bank and do some shopping.
I filled 4 tanks. I stopped the compressor to refill with petrol and when I went to start it the start cord broke – I don’t believe it! Another early start to repair something – I hope I have more luck with the compressor than I did with the outboard! A couple dropped by to ask about doing an Open Water Course – Gordon and Tessa from “Makarma”! I said come back in a few days when my sanity has returned!
14 April 1995 English Harbour
Glenys did school work in the morning and then went onto “Dabulamanzi” to prepare for the start of the charter tomorrow. I had a bit of a revision session to go over the skills learned so far. I then did their Open Water Dives No 1 & No 2 in pairs – 4 dives for me and 2 dives for each of them. In between dives I ran the compressor to fill the odd tank to stay ahead.
On the first dive, I left the compressor running (by mistake). I remembered halfway through the dive, but all I could do was hope that the safety pressure valve worked! All went well and I finished the dives early and had time to do Theory 5. I filled 13 tanks, which means that my compressor has been running for 3.5 hours today. I’m not the most popular person in the anchorage...
Glenys pumped up the old Avon dinghy yesterday. Now Brett has commandeered it to transport him and Dorian to the beach!
15 April 1995 English Harbour
Final exam and Confined Water 4 in the morning. Glenys went onto “Dabulamanzi” at seven o’clock in the morning and we said goodbye for two weeks. I filled 10 part tanks.
In the afternoon, I did Confined Water 5 and the boys went to an Easter Fete at a local school with “Namaste”. It sounds like they all had a ball. Donkey cart rides, throwing darts at balloons, throwing wet sponges at a grown up with his head through a hole, etc. They didn’t get back until about five o’clock, so Bob and Diane stayed for a beer. Bob plays keyboard and sings in hotels and bars to earn some money and also played the clarinet for seven years, so I’m going to get him over to check me out!
16 April 1995 English Harbour
Easter Sunday. Easter eggs are really expensive out here, so Brett and Craig just got a bag of chocolates. Craig has just had his first thoughts that Easter Bunny isn’t real – Dorian off “Namaste” told Craig that “its just parents that leave things for you”. They mentioned it to me but I was non committal! They then saw a Roses box in the bin, which I suppose means the end of Easter Bunny!
I did Open Water Dive 4 with both pairs in the morning. I went to start the compressor and the recoil spring on the pull start up has broken. Unfortunately, it’s really difficult to take the unit to bits, but at least it easily starts using the emergency system – (wrap string around pulley on end of shaft). I spent another three hours filling 12 tanks.
I did Dive No. 5 with the Whiteleys and certified them all as OW Divers. They want to borrow gear tomorrow, so I couldn’t relax and had to fill all the tanks!
The boys had a great time on the beach at an Easter barbeque. “Namaste” and “Blue Monsoon” organised egg hunts, egg races and egg catching competitions for the kids and adults! I’m exhausted, but pleased to earn $1455 US for 5 days work.
17 April 1995 English Harbour
I got up this morning and decided to have a rest day – sod the school work! I tidied up the boat and then painted a map watercolour for “Bullwinkle”. I was quite pleased that I managed to draw a reasonable representation of a Sigma 38 under sail, from scratch. My colours are still a bit intense, but I’m getting better.
I tidied up a bit more and then played the clarinet. I finished the day with a dinner of Fray Bentos chicken and mushroom pie – luxury! I’ve lost a lot of my spare tyre over the last week – I must be careful not to put it back on! The boys spent the day on the beach and on “Glencora” with Dorian. Easter Monday is obviously a local holiday because the beaches were packed with locals having a good time.
18 April 1995 English Harbour
School work in the morning. I took “Blue Monson’s” dive gear back to them and found out that Darah was going for a dive – so I went too. He found Stingray Alley which was OK. I went running about doing errands in the afternoon and dropped our outboard at Seagull Marine to get the water pump sorted out. “Blue Monsoon” came for a beer. The boys and I then had spaghetti bolognese for dinner. We had an in-depth discussion about “Easter Bunny” – they know that he doesn’t exist! I filled 2 tanks.
19 April 1995 English Harbour
Lesson 80 this morning – half way through the course. We are still 6 weeks behind our target – that’s about 20 lessons. We need to try harder! In the afternoon I played the clarinet. I had a great time messing about with accompaniments on the keyboard. The boys went out playing with Dorian as usual. I converted the left over bolognese into chilli with rice!
20 April 1995 English Harbour
School work in the morning. I took Craig to “Blue Monsoon” to get his filling seen to. Darah ended up removing another filling which wasn’t too solid. She did about 45 minutes work for only 25EC (£6). In the afternoon I went to see if the outboard was ready – it wasn’t!
Then I went to “Namaste” to get a clarinet check up – I don’t seem to be doing much wrong and I learned a bit more about reeds. I think that my embouchure is incorrect – I reckon that I’m pressing down on my bottom lip to get high notes rather than stretching my bottom lip – I’ll have to work on that! I had a look at Bob’s midi set-up which was interesting.
A South African boat “Coquette” arrived with three children - Dinah, Robin and Matthew. Brett and Craig have met them before at Hog Island so they are in ecstasy! I went over in the evening to have a quick beer with them. Roast chicken, mash, peas and Bisto gravy for dinner.
21 April 1995 English Harbour
School work in the morning. I picked up the outboard - $80 US for labour. He put the old impellor back in and shimmed up a metal sleeve in the pump body. I’ll have to buy spares just in case! Filled 4 tanks. I seemed to spend all day running about or cleaning up the boat.
“Dabulamanzi” arrived back today, but I could only wave to Glenys as she sailed past. They are staying in Falmouth tonight, but the guests leave tomorrow so I guess they’ll come back to English Harbour. The boys had another fun packed afternoon with their friends. We had chicken curry with pineapple for dinner – I overcooked the chicken and it went to mush, but the boys loved it! A boat called “Hulie” has dragged a bit (with no-one on board), so I had to get up a few times during the night to check on them.
22 April 1995 English Harbour
School work in the morning. We walked around to Falmouth to meet Glenys and Gareth. We had a few beers at G & T’s and went to “Dabulamanzi” for lunch. Glenys came back to “Glencora” and we had a quiet evening.
23 April 1995 English Harbour
Brett and Craig went up to the Interpretation Centre with “Coquette”. Glenys and I went out to do a dive with Darah and Brian from “Blue Monsoon”. Unfortunately, Glenys’ pressure gauge started to leak so she had to abort her dive. I carried on with Darah and Brian and then went and did another dive with Glenys with a different regulator. I filled 3 tanks. We just mooched about in the afternoon and then Gareth came for dinner.
24 April 1995 English Harbour
I’m paranoid that someone will nick “my” mooring if we move, so we dropped the mooring at quarter past seven, filled up with water, and we were back on the mooring at quarter past eight - before most of our neighbours had woken up!
We went over to “Hulie” to talk to Keith and Tina to tell them that they dragged a couple of days ago. School work in the morning – Glenys went over to “Dabulamanzi” to start preparing for tomorrow’s charter. We went to “Blue Monsoon” for a beer, stayed until ten o’clock at night and ended up having beans on toast for dinner!
25 April 1995 English Harbour
Glenys was up and rushing about at seven o’clock in the morning. The boys stayed in bed until half past eight, so we had a late start to their school work. I had to have a break at about half past ten so that I could go over to immigration to check our papers. We originally said that we would be here until 1st May, so that’s when our visas expire. I told them that we would probably be here until the 10th May and they said no problem.
Glenys came over with some vegetables and asked me to make the vinegar mixture for ceviche fish because it would make “Dabulamanzi” smell – bloody cheek!
I finally finished school work at two o’clock. The boys went to the beach while I ran about doing errands and tidying up. We went to see Richard and Sue to have chilli and watch a couple of Race Week videos. I filled 2 tanks.
26 April 1995 English Harbour
The boys went off at half past nine with “Coquette” to a beach by Falmouth Harbour to watch a classic yacht race. I was a lazy sod and sat in the cockpit and read a book. In the afternoon I tidied up and made dinner.
I had a beer and a glass of Chardonnay - I ended up polishing off a whole bottle... I’m getting worried about the amount of alcohol that Glenys and I drink. We always have the equivalent of a beer and half a bottle of wine each. Some nights we have more. I wake up every morning feeling dull or with a hangover – it’s ridiculous but very hard to stop. The first beer in the evening is divine and starts the slow slide into alcoholic oblivion. One of the main problems is that I can’t find a non-alcoholic drink that I like – coke is too sickly and water is boring. I don’t seem capable of restraint after I’ve had a beer – so I’ll just have to use all my willpower and give up completely.
27 April 1995 English Harbour
What a terrible night. A 50ft French boat hit us twice during the night. He didn’t do any damage apart from a few scratches, but it ruined my night’s sleep! Every slight noise or gust of wind would wake me up and I just had to look out of the windows. It’s a pretty anchorage, but hell on my karma! The French boat went at eight o’clock this morning, but left a nice tempting gap for another charter boat to fill.
We did school work in the morning and then I ran a few errands. By the time I’d tidied up it was four o’clock, so I sat down and had my piano practice – I’ve bitten my bottom lip and can’t play the clarinet. I managed to get hold of five Mountgay Hat tickets for the party tomorrow night – they won’t give the hats out to children, so I’m going to have difficulty getting them all. I just HAD to have a couple of beers in the evening with my bangers and mash.
28 April 1995 English Harbour
I was dragged out of bed at half past eight in the morning by Richard Matthews (MD of Oyster Yachts.) He knocked on the hull and I appeared in my underpants. He invited me to the Oyster Owners Party on Wednesday evening. I looked confused about who he was, so he took a second look at “Glencora” and said “This is an Oyster isn’t it?” - obviously used to Oyster owners doting on him. I thanked him and accepted the tickets - anything for a free beer! I’m sure that we are the scruffiest Oyster that he’s seen for a while – we’re in full anchorage mode with lumps of wood, windsurfers, towels, etc scattered everywhere and food stains down the side of the hull!
We did school work which took until one o’clock. In the afternoon, I went to the shops, played the clarinet and then went to the Mountgay Party. About 5 minutes after the official start of the party, there were about 200 people queuing for the famous Mountgay hats! The lady handing out the hats was very nice and gave one to Brett and Craig. After making two more trips around the queue, I had 5 hats so I can give one to Gareth. The party was good fun with free rum drinks until half past six. After that drinks were $5 for a beer, etc. The boys and I retired at half past seven, leaving the rest to party into the small hours.
29 April 1995 English Harbour
School work in the morning. It took us until two o’clock to finish Brett off. I’m afraid that I lost my temper and shouted at him. I try very hard to ask him nicely to do things but after 3 or 4 attempts I suddenly go ballistic. I’ve shouted at him quite a few times over the last 2 weeks and it always comes as a bit of a shock to him. He doesn’t realise that each time I ask him I get a bit madder. Perhaps I should start to show my annoyance earlier and give him a lead up to the detonation!
By the time I’d got to the shops and tidied up it was four o’clock – nearly time for a beer! We had pizza for dinner.
30 April 1995 English Harbour
Today was the first race of Antigua Week, so we went for a walk with “Namaste” to the top of a hill to get a good view of the start line. We had a fantastic spot about 800 metres upwind of the start line. Most of the yachts started on starboard tack which took them towards the rocks directly below us, so we had a great view of tacking battles. It was a long way there and back but well worth the walk. The boys had fun collecting berries from the Turk’s Head cactus which are a bit tart, but OK to eat.
After lunch a guy I’d never met, Keith of “Tsimbe” brought us a nice small 3lb tuna which he had “spare”. It was very nice of him and so it’s spaghetti with tuna sauce tonight! The boys went out to the beach and I lounged about with a book. I don’t seem to be able to motivate myself to do any jobs other than the domestic chores – it’s hard being a father and a housewife! We managed 18 lessons in April – we’re now only 12 behind target.